We are back in the States, safe and sound. The crossing of the Gulf Stream was easy as a wink this time around. Conditions were favorable for motor/sailing as there was little wind and we made excellent time. What a relief! I had mentally prepared myself for a drawn-out ordeal but we were docked in Palm Beach within twelve hours of our departure from Old Bahama Bay. Good old Tranquility held it together and got us back to our homeland!
I am sitting at an Internet cafe in Fernandina Beach writing this in the early morning. I don't have much time; we're getting ready to shove off on the last leg of this journey. We have motored up the ICW the whole length of Florida (and it is loooong) because of northerly winds and storms offshore. Now it seems fine to head out into the deep blue ocean and really cover some ground. So, for the next three or four days we will be putting in very long hours while the sun is shining and coming back inshore to anchor at night.
I just wanted to let you all know that we are fine. Here are some pictures I have taken of our arrival in the States, moving up the Intracoastal Waterway and St. Augustine (we took a breather in that lovely city for a couple of days). I will be making one more post from Charleston to wrap up with some final thoughts. America- I love you!!!
"But do you not mean that the river is everywhere at once, at its origin and at its mouth, at the waterfall, at the ferry, at the rapids, in the sea, in the mountains, everywhere at the same time, and for it only the present exists, no shadow of the past, no shadow of the future?"
-Siddhartha by Hermann Hesse
Well folks, we are back where we started this exploration of the Bahamas-Old Bahama Bay on West End. The plan was to camp out here for a couple of days enjoying the Bahamian sunshine and waters while we waited for the perfect conditions to pass back through the Gulf Stream to the States. After our last crossing, I refuse to go in anything but the most favorable winds and the smallest swells. So, this is my last post from the islands. How bittersweet! On one hand I am absolutely heartbroken to be leaving this place-it has come to feel like home and we have an odd hodge-podge family of friends scattered over these rocks. On the other hand, I ache for Charleston and am thrilled at the thought of seeing all of my loved ones, chatting with my girlfriends, sleeping in my bed, snuggling with my kitty cat and eating fresh foods! I think the word for life is bittersweet.
These past few weeks we have been visiting our favorite islands in the Abacos. After my Mama left we sailed up to Manjack Cay for some Mother Nature time. Manjack is my favorite place to stay on the anchor in the Abacos. The harbor beach is beautiful and there are even thatched roof umbrellas with swings hanging down into the water! Fun! Just a few people live on the island and they have carved out hiking trails through the thick vegetation to the north shore and some of the most breathtaking locations I've ever seen. We have spent a lot of time here. The days have blended together and seem like one endless string of swimming, hiking, playing frisbee, sweating and reading. Oh, and rowing. Our dinghy outboard motor broke again at Manjack so we were rowing quite a bit for about a week. After lots of bickering we managed to finally find a system that works for us. We just can't sit beside each other :)
Our good friend Brendal invited us to a party at his house, so Green Turtle Cay was our next destination. It was so great to be in a real house, around people talking and laughing. One of the most amazing things about this experience has been the people we have gotten to know. My heart has been touched! The party was a huge success-divine food, lots of rum punch flowing, and a great mix of diverse people. My cheeks hurt the next day from smiling and laughing so much.
On that next day we had to skedaddle back down to Marsh Harbor to retrieve our dinghy motor from the fix-it shop, go get a few groceries and clear back through immigration. Nothing like waiting until the last minute-we were on day 90 of our 90 legal days in the Bahamas. But it was no problem-clearing was a breeze and we got 45 more days just in case something unexpected should arise.
Feeling the need to explore a new place we chose to anchor off of Man-O-War Cay and what a treat! Man-O-War (to my knowledge) is the only island in the Abacos that is strictly a dry island-meaning no alcohol is served anywhere. I think for this reason a lot of the party people bypass this little jewel. If I were to ever have a house in the Bahamas I would choose Man-O-War for the location (or Staniel Cay in the Exumas). It is peaceful, charming and covered in flowering tropical growth with homes scattered here and there. And lots of ice cream shops! We just hung out here and let the days idle past until Chip's parents were scheduled to arrive on Elbow Cay.
While Ms. Annita and Mr. Candler were at Abaco Inn Resort we docked at Sea Spray Marina less than a mile away. Unfortunately, the day before they flew in storm clounds and a deluge of rain settled over the area and didn't let up. We made the best of it: walking Hopetown in the light drizzle, shelling on Tahiti beach, golf cart rides over the island and eating wonderful fresh seafood. They took us out for great meals which were such a welcome change after months of the same foods over and over. (We are absolutely sick of our food selection on the boat and can't wait for Charleston cuisine-yum!) The last day before the Hunts left for Georgia, the clouds parted just long enough for us to take a day sail to Man-O-War. We got to show off our fantastic sailing skills :) and put their worried minds to rest. We have learned so much on this trip and we do actually know what we are doing! After dinghying to shore and walking into town we had a delicious lunch on the water and ice cream cones for the walk back to the boat. A pretty perfect day.
Practically every single day since then squalls have blown up from nowhere. They're packing high winds, torrential rains and (the scariest part) lots of lightning strikes. We are walking around in rubber flip-flops just to feel like we're doing something to prevent being zapped. June 1st (today) is the first day of hurricane season officially and we are trying to hightail it out of here before it gets any worse.
Of course, we had to stop by Green Turtle Cay, make the rounds and tell our friends goodbye. I'm not even gone and I am looking forward to coming back! I love these islands and the people. Green Turtle has been one of my favorite places to go running. The views are stunning in every direction. Roosters, chickens and baby chicks are all over the place. Friendly dogs roam about and everyone smiles and says hello. During my last run there, a horse just emerged out of the woods and stayed right beside me for almost a mile! It was the strangest thing. Over the course of these past several months I have befriended countless dogs that have followed me as I wander, but never before a horse!
I managed to talk Chip into staying one more day and night at Manjack Cay. I wanted to have just a bit more quiet calm in nature before we speed back to West End. Just the wind, waves and stars. I am going to miss this way of life.
Through storms and huge gusts of wind we made it from Manjack to Allans-Pensacola Cay where we stayed for one night. Another nerve-wracking squally day took us to Mangrove Cay where we spent our last evening at achor in the Bahamas. And, here I am at Old Bahama Bay. I have been living in a bikini, sipping pina coladas and enjoying the tropical sunshine. Early tomorrow we are leaving the docks here and setting out across the Gulf Stream. Conditions seem good: light and variable winds with seas less than three feet. The only concern is these thunderstorms that creep up unexpectedly. So, please, again, send us some good energy and blessings. We will be in touch as soon as possible. America! I'm coming home!
