Forgive me, forgive me! It has been three weeks since my last update and I'm sorry for the delay. So much has happened. I think we have settled into the island lifestyle and getting things done in a timely manner just doesn't seem too important these days! The weeks seem to be slipping by. Let me catch you up.
So, we left Staniel Cay and headed to Warderick Wells for a few days of good, old fashioned outdoor adventure. We played frisbee, went hiking, swam around and snorkeled the many reefs surrounding our anchorage. Beautiful-the water here is as clear as pool water and visibility is just amazing. Warderick Wells is in the protected area of the Exuma Land and Sea Park so there is no fishing, spearing, or shelling. The only thing you leave is footprints and the only things you take are memories and pictures! We saw a lobster literally the size of Chili, lots of playful fish, and nothing big and scary-a perfect underwater experience.
From Warderick Wells, we continued covering ground north and stopped for two days at Norman's Cay which interestingly used to be under the control of an unfriendly drug lord. Even though that is way in the past, it still felt eerie and a little bit dangerous to hike along the paths and explore the hidden delights. (Don't worry Nanny, I always take my pepper spray whenever I go out by myself-smooches!)
It was a sad day when we had to leave the Exumas. I honestly don't know if it can be any better anywhere in the world. Just gorgeous. By mid-April we entered the waters along the western coast of Eleuthera with very little time to spare before my Mom was to arrive in Marsh Harbor. Knowing that, we decided to speed through but spend two nights in lovely Governor's Harbor-an area we came to know the first time around. We again walked to the far eastern Atlantic Ocean side of the island where in any one direction the water is nine different shades of blue. Pictures just don't capture the magnificence! In Governor's Harbor Chip decided he was going to be a vegetarian for the rest of the trip (I have been for some time). This decision was made while eating what appeared to be a pig-ear sandwich masquerading as a club. I guess it was the last straw. The meat available in the Bahamas is a bit sketchy to say the least. The seafood is divine and usually same-day fresh. The meat is not so much. I will leave it at that.
Anyway, we had to move on through Eleuthera and cover about 140 miles in a week. As it turns out, we planned it perfectly and when we arrived at the northern most anchorage of Eleuthera there was a one day weather window in which to make the 60 mile passage into the Abacos. Had we done anything differently we would have had a real hard time off shore with super high winds and gigantic swells. I love it when things work out nicely! We made excellent time with moderate wind behind us. It is all about the wind speed and direction. In March, the same 6o mile passage going south into the trade winds took us from sunrise to sunset.
We arrived in Marsh Harbor with three days to spare before my Mom arrived. Luckily, because we had a plethora of issues to resolve. Number one: multiple holes in a twenty year old headsail. Number two: a copious amount of sediment in our diesel tank that chokes out our engine in anything but the calmest seas. Number three: the outboard motor on our dinghy abruptly stopped working.
We spent a crazy amount of time trying to find someone on any of the surrounding islands to sew up our sails. Of the two men who do such work, one was gone and nobody knew when he would be back, and the other had hurt his back and would be gone for a bit! We managed to buy some sail tape eventually and Chip spent an entire day hand sewing the thick, heavy material. It was a big job, but he did some fine handiwork and the sail seems to be holding up nicely. Keep your fingers crossed!
We scheduled an appointment at Marsh Harbor Boat Yard to have a professional assess the persistent problem of our foul diesel tank. We thought the sediment was from corrosion of the tank-we were wrong. Actually it was some type of bio-sludge that diesel can grow. The nice men there performed a fuel polishing service where they vigorously pump the diesel through all the lines as well as two filtering sources. A huge clump of nasty, engine-starving sludge was removed and hopefully that problem is fixed for good. (Although, another guy who runs a boat yard told me that once a diesel tank grows sludge you must remove the whole thing and start over. We're going to think positively for now.)
Out of all the issues the one that took the most out of us was the little dinghy outboard motor quitting. A word to the wise: try to avoid being in a little boat with your significant other with long distances to cover and only oars to propel you. Yes, it could be fun and romantic if it were a leisurely row. No, it is neither fun nor romantic if you have to row far, far away against a ripping current with a wet dog who keeps jumping overboard and a person with a different rowing technique. :) After a little research we took (meaning rowed) the motor to a shop and with a quick fix had a new shear pin in our propeller and a dinghy that worked! Thank goodness!
And then... my Mom came to visit for a long weekend! I can't describe how wonderful it was to have her company. We really have been so isolated from family and friends what with no cell phone service, spotty internet if we're lucky, and being unable to receive mail. I'll bet that only one out of every five payphones I come across actually works; they are few and far between. Also, a phone card may work in one area and not be valid in another! There is a well known song here on the islands and the only words are "I need a phone card. You got a phone card?" over and over. That should give you an idea of the phone situation here! Haha! I digress.
My Mom came to visit! For her arrival we were docked at Abaco Beach Resort and Boat Harbor Marina in Marsh Harbor. This place was the fanciest establishment we have been to yet. The grounds were lush with vegetation, there were pools, tiki bars, and the food was delicious. On Saturday we made the short trip over to the quaint village of Hope Town on Elbow Cay. Of all the settlements we have experienced Hope Town is the coziest and possibly the most picturesque. The homes were like doll houses and their elaborate gardens sprawled as far as the eye could see. We ate great seafood, drank fruity drinks, took long walks on the green sea beaches, climbed the candy-striped lighthouse and soaked up the views. The next day we had a pleasant little sail back to Abaco Beach Resort and spent the afternoon lounging by the pool and catching up on everything that has gone on in the last three months. All three of us were super blue when Mom left for Charleston and I'm as homesick now as I was in the beginning of this voyage! If I could only be in two places at once...
After Marsh Harbor, we came north to Green Turtle Cay and here we are. This past weekend was the Island Roots Heritage Festival which celebrates Bahamian culture. We rented bikes and pedaled over to the festivities where we enjoyed good home-cooked food, music, dancing, a stellar marching band and running into some of our old friends from the first round through Abaco! Locals gave lectures on Bahamian history, flora and fauna, bush medicine, archaeology, and reef preservation. A huge crowd turned out and it was delightful.
Wait! I almost forgot-we were without running fresh water for a few days last week and over the weekend. There was a major leak and about forty gallons of water ended up in the bilge and we had no water pressure at all. It took a while to track down the source of the leakage. Chip took apart the pump, checked hoses and we were starting to think Tranquility had to go back to the boat yard to have the floor ripped up for a major overhaul (can you imagine how awful?). Fortunately, along with some help from our friend Brendal, he was able to locate a hose underneath the aft berth that had come detached and was just pouring water into the bilge. It has been repaired and all seems well. You don't realize how absolutely wonderful running water is until it's gone! Again, keep your fingers crossed.
We have been chilling with our friend Brendal-of the famous Brendal's Dive Shop here on Green Turtle. He has taken us to some local hot spots and is more fun than you can imagine. He was also kind enough to let me pick through his music stockpile and copy a bunch of songs to practice on my guitar. I can strum a somewhat recognizable "Redemption Song" by Bob Marley. I have played it so frequently over the past couple of weeks that Chip absentmindedly hums it and speaks to the rhythm! Hmm, maybe we need to get off this boat more...
Tomorrow morning we are leaving society and going to anchor off Manjack Cay for a few nights. We have been more social this past week than in the past two months combined and I feel the need for some quiet on the water. Ahh, simplicity.
